Thursday, 9 February 2012

Nepal Mountaineering Association Trek leaders


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Patrick Manier and Vignayek with students
MLTUK's Steve Long worked alongside Patrick Magnier (seen in this photo) on an experimental but succsessful course where former trainees from the NMA/Petzl Foundation trek leaders' training scheme were trained as tutors to work under the supervision of qualified Nepalese instructors. Working with us were two Nepalese Guides: Lakpa Sherpa and Jyamchang Bhote. The experiemental bit was using real students for the trainee tutors to work with. The end result for both tutors, students and instructors was startlingly successful.

Sunrise at NMA's training centre at Kakani
This final installment in the long-running project by the Petzl Foundation handed over the administration of the scheme to NMA with the intention that once it is fully established, NMA will apply to the UIAA for accreditaion. 
Working with minimal resources and intermittent power cuts, this was a challenging but immensely rewarding project. The UIAA Mountaineering Commission also hopes that the longstanding Slovenian supported Basic Mountaineering scheme in Nepal will also be nominated for Training Standard accreditation. More photos and some film footage can be found at the Flickr hosting site by following the photo link.

A similar project is still ongoing in Ladakh; this will be another international training team project, possibly including an instructor from Nepal.

Thursday, 2 February 2012

The graduates


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Man, Vinayek and Mingmar, by SteveMLT
Man, Vinayek and Mingmar, 3 of the students on last week's course. This week they are helping 2 Nepalese Guide/Instructors and 2 IFMGA Guides to deliver a similar trekking skills course to fellow compatriats. The course is fairly similar in content to the Accompanateurs (EML) course before the full winter component was added.

Some of the students are atteding the course as a primer for the NMA Basic Mountaineering Course (which has a long waiting list), some want to go together to climb Island Peak, a few work as trekking guides (with some impressive peaks to their names, and may years' experience!). Currently we have 6 new students from a similarly eclectic background including an actress/director. Perfect weather again this morning, but no water or electricity today so I'll sign off before my laptop's batteries go flat - today is the last and only internet access we'll get for the week.

Saturday, 21 January 2012

Coaching Climbing Technical Group

The 2-day "lock-in" planning event at Plas y Brenin !9-20th January 2011 was a great success! Over an intensive 2 days we thrashed out the remaining questions about the delivery mechanism for training and assessment of level 1 and 2 coaching, with the medium term aim of piloting the constituent modules over the next few months.

From LtoR: Jon Garside, Martin Chester, Dave Binney, Ian Dunn, Tom Greenall, Neal McQuaid, Steve Long

Wednesday, 18 January 2012

Route reading on a coaching course

I was invited by Neil Gresham to watch his coach training course at the Westway climbing wall, and the chance arose to take a day out from the office and travel down to London to see the second half of the "Technique" module. Neil runs a coach training scheme which focuses on a particular type of coaching, which might loosely be described as intense development sessions and courses for intermediate through to advanced sport climbers. The training scheme therefore contains many elements that will eventually be included within the National Coaching Qualifications when they are introduced. Levels 1 and 2 should be ready for launching in early 2013, with Level 3 to follow, hopefully within a further 18 months. Neil's coaching courses provide training in elements that will be included within Levels 2 and 3, providing interesting CPD for anybody seeking to develop their coaching repertoire for this kind of coaching work.

Friday, 13 January 2012

Comes the Dervish


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Originally uploaded by SteveMLT
The unseasonally mild conditions have given a dry day at last. After a morning spent mending the garden greenhouse and shed, we set off for Tremadog but were diverted by the sight of the Dervish slab glistening in the winter sun. This wonderful pitch is one of the truly great slab routes: a perfect crack line splitting the great slab above Llanberis. Apart from the rather serious start the route is well-protected with an assortment of wires and cams.

Via Flickr:
Comes the Dervish: classic slate climbing on a sunny winter afternoon

MLT at the Outdoor Show

Rachael has just spent two days at the Outdoor Show in London and now it's my turn so it's early train on Saturday morning for me. Back Sunday night from the madding crowds.
Mal

Monday, 9 January 2012

British Mountain Guides Open Day 2012

Here's an open invitation sent out by the British Mountain Guides: should be a good day!

The British Association of Mountain Guides, BMG, is to hold an Open Day at Plas y Brenin, Capel Curig North Wales on Saturday 19th May 2012.

This day is aimed at promoting the mountain guiding profession as a career and explaining the BMG training scheme.
It is open to alpinists who would like to find out more about mountain guiding as a career.
This is a great opportunity not only to meet the BMG Training officer and the guides involved in the training scheme, but also to get to know BMG guides who can assist you on your road to becoming an IFMGA guide.

The BMG was formed in 1975 and is a full member of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA) representing twenty two countries in all. The IFMGA sets the standards for training of guides worldwide and the IFMGA badge worn by guides has become the assurance of the highest professional and technical standards.
Guides working in the European Alps are legally obliged to become a member of the IFMGA. The completion of the BMG training scheme entitles a guide to become a member of the IFMGA.

The life of a mountain guide can be very demanding and it is important from the outset that we attract the right calibre of climbers and mountaineers who would like to join the BMG and become a member of the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA).

All participants for this open day must have extensive British and Alpine climbing and mountaineering experience and have a genuine interest in guiding as a career.  This day should be of particular interest to experienced alpinists and MIC holders who have alpine experience.
The pre requirements for joining the BMG training scheme are that you should have completed approximately 50 routes of E1/5b, a similar amount of British Winter routes at Grade IV/V. You should also have completed about 20 alpine routes of which 10 must be TD and 5 of these 10 should be serious and committing routes of a mixed nature at least 800m in length. Experience in the greater ranges is also accepted. You should also have logged about 30 days ski touring. Please consult the BMG website (www.bmg.org.uk) for a complete list of entry requirements.
Do not worry if you haven’t yet achieved this level of experience as part of the open day is to give you advice on how best to attain these pre requisites. You should however expect to be able to meet these pre requirements within the next 5 years. If in doubt send in an application and we will advise you.

Programme (subject to change):
Saturday 19th May 2012
9.15 Assemble in main lecture theatre at PyB
9.30 Introduction and Outline for the Day
9.45 The BMG Training and Assessment Scheme, presentation by Terry Ralphs (BMG training officer) and course convenors.
10.45 How to meet the pre-requirements talk by Andy Teasdale
11.15 Break Tea and Coffee
11.45 Questions
12.00 Lunch (provided by BMG)
13.00 Outdoor practical sessions. A chance to climb with experienced BMG Guides, discuss the training scheme and any guiding/instruction techniques. Crag Venue tba, depending on conditions.
18.45 Informal drink at PyB bar
20.00 Lecture:- “The life of a Mountain Guide” Open to public

Sunday is a day, where by, you might like to stay in North Wales and climb with the other participants.
This is a great chance to form new friendships and potentially an exciting step into a new career.

As it is important to get some idea of numbers for this event, and a clear idea of your ability, please use the application form which can be downloaded from the BMG website www.bmg.org.uk     
or by contacting the BMG office: BMG, Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig LL24 0ES. Email: guiding@bmg.org.uk
Tel 01690 720386, Fax 01690 720248

There is a small charge of £30 to cover lunch and all presentations / activities on this day. This should be paid when you send in your booking form. Please pay by cheque payable to “British Mountain Guides”

Application forms must be submitted by email or post before the 1st May 2012. You will then be contacted with further information before the 10th May. If you need further information please contact the BMG office